I'm super excited to write this review.First,I love product that I recently purchased.Second,this is an interesting topic(well..at least for me;) ). If you often
visit read my blog,you'll notice that now(hmm,actually the beginning of this year)I'm converting my cosmetics into less artificial-chemical products,in the hope of achieving toxic free cosmetics.Well,at least I'm minimizing it into certain level.While converting it,my main focus is absolutely finding safe lipstick products for me.I don't want to voluntarily ingest-swallow harmfull chemical in the name of anything(high end brand,highly raves,good packaging,etc etc).I may tolerate foundation,blush on products,but certainly not to lips products.
As you might know,when we buy colored cosmetic(lipstick,blush on,eyeshadow,even skincare),there're sources of cosmetic color that we buy.Now,what are sources of our cosmetic color?Generally it can be classified into these:
Leaves,Fruits,Root,Flower,basically from plant.
From insect,fish,snail,and anyother animal.Yes,animal.Royal purple color,once worn only by royalty as the name suggests, is obtained from the Murex snail. Sepia is obtained from cuttlefish, and Indian yellow is obtained from the urine of cows that have been force-fed mango leaves.The most famous animal that is made into color source of cosmetic will be cochineal.Cochineal is an insect that is used to make carmine color in food and cosmetic industry.This is the picture of cochineal:
Carmine color is extracted from the insect's body and eggs and mixed with aluminum or calcium salts to make carmine dye .The insects are killed by immersion in hot water (after which they are dried) or by exposure to sunlight, steam, or the heat of an oven. Each method produces a different colour that results in the varied appearance of commercial cochineal. The insects must be dried to about 30 percent of their original body weight before they can be stored without decaying.It takes about 70,000 insects to make one pound of cochineal dye.Okay,that torturing animal activity is enough to ban it from my cosmetic purchase.Also,I certainly don't want to see insect on my cosmetic product.More,if you're a moslem like me,carmine is haram according to some islamic religious council.Just google it for sure!;)Carmine is labelled as CI 75470,or E120.Carmine is also called Crimson Lake, Cochineal, Natural Red #4.And,carmine is widely used in food industry as well.Just check your candy or yoghurt.Basically,carmine is used to make red color in both food and cosmetic industry.Also,as a food dye it has been known to cause severe allergic reactions and anaphylactic shock in some people.
The minerals are pulverized and mixed with a dispersing or spreading agent. Sometimes heating the minerals produces different hues.This mineral origins(elements, oxides, gemstones, salts, and complex salts)are insoluble,so can be defined as pigments.
Synthetic colorants are copies of vegetable, animal, and mineral-based colorants, and are made in a laboratory. Until the nineteenth century, all colorants were of natural origin. The first synthetically made commercial colorant, mauve, was developed from aniline, a coal tar derivative, by William Henry Perkins in 1856. Today, chemists arrange and manipulate complex organic compounds to make dyes of all colors. Synthetic dyes, made in a controlled atmosphere, are without impurities and the colors are more consistent from batch to batch.The most common synthetic colors used in cosmetics and hair dyes are called FD&C colors or D&C colors.FD&C colors means the colors has been certified by USFDA to be used in Food,Drugs,& Cosmetics. D&C colors means the color can be used in Drugs & Cosmetics only,and not in Food.FD&C and D&C colors are derived from coal tar, which in turn is a by-product of petroleum. Because some coal tar dyes have been known to cause cancer, they are are regulated by the USFDA as to the amount of lead or arsenic they contain, limiting these elements to 10 parts per million. For complete list of colors additives that are subject to certification or exempt of certification both FD&C and D&C in cosmetic uses,you can click this link: USFDA
Lake colors can also be derived from coal tar.Lakes are produced from the FD&C Dyes and are oil dispersible (but generally not oil soluble) and thus can be mixed with oils and fats. They can also be dispersed in other carriers such as propylene glycol, glycerin and sucrose (water and sugar).That's why it's often used in cosmetic industry since generally cosmetics are made of oil.So,if in our cosmetic there're either:"FD&C color,or D&C color,or Lake color"on ingredients list,it means the cosmetic uses synthetic color as the colorants.
Now,what is CI in our cosmetic color ingredients list?CI stands for Color Index.That is the system that has been devised by The Society of Dyers and Colourists and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.The system consists of the common name for the color, and a five-digit identification number(for example CI 75470 for Carmine,CI 75300 for Curcumin,etc).CI number is only a color index,CI number doesn't mean the color has been certified by USFDA.CI number contains colors of plants,animal,mineral,and synthetic origins.Colors of plants,animal,mineral colors must be approved by the FDA for use in edibles, cosmetics and drugs, but are not subject to batch certification.Synthetic colors are subject to certification(see"synthetic color"above^^).In Europe,they use E number instead(for example:E120 for Carmine,E100 for curcumin,etc).E number isn't used for color index only,it's number codes for food additives that have been assessed for use within the European Union (the "E" prefix stands for "Europe").E100-E199 are for colors.The rest are for preservatives,flavour enhancers,stabilizers,etc.However,both Europe and USFDA have different standard on certification.If the color using USFDA standard of certification for complete issue,click this link:USFDA
So why aren’t Natural(plants,animals,mineral)colors used more?Compared to artificial/synthetic colors, they are generally more expensive, the hues are less vibrant, the palate of available shades is limited, and they are not as concentrated.Stability can be effected by other ingredients and variations in pH. They generally have a short shelf life before fading occurs as compared to their artificial counterparts.However,there's this brand called"100% pure"that can make various shades using just fruits & vegetables as their pigments.Not only that,their products are vegan which means no animal derived. I've heard about mineral based colorants,but fruits based colorants really drag me in.Why?mineral based colorants are usually pigments which makes it easier to be used with oil in since mostly cosmetics are oil based.While plants colorants are usually non pigments(soluble in water)and not easy to be used in cosmetics which are oil based.So of course i'm interested in trying 100% pure make up products.Their fruit pigmented products are in patent pending process btw.They also have skincare range which is amazed me since they don't use synthetic filler,stabilizer,etc.But from their make up and skincare range,i'm interested in make up range more since there're other brands who can make such skincare in more affordable prices.But for fruits pigmented make up,only 100% pure who does it.
And,this is what I purchased:100%pure lipglaze in peach.It came in silver casing with floral printed on it. So Pretty!! :) Ingredients list is printed on sealed plastic.
There're alot of colors available(see swatch below),but hard to find an online shop that carry a complete range of 100%pure make up,and ship it internationally.And the official web didn't ship it internationally(at least when I ordered this).So some online shop only carry some colors,limited choice.
courtesy of 100%pure
I chose peach one because I've never had any orangey lipstick.
This is the swatch on my hand and plain paper:
It looks really peach on the pic while actually in real it has slight a hint of pink color,not pure orange.If you only wear it 1 sweep,so it will give you sheer color.Sweep it 2 times or more,it will give you solid color in glossy finish. Staying power?in my experience,unless you buy lipstick labelled in"matte",so don't expect lipstick to last long.Also,if you have thin,small lips(which I do)so even if you have matte lipstick,you'll need to apply lipstick again once you've eaten something.
Anyway,here is the Ingredients :
Organic Avocado Butter1, Organic Cocoa Butter1, Contains all or some of the following Fruit Pigments: Organic Cherry2, Organic Plum2, Cabernet Grape, Organic Raspberry2, Organic Blueberry2, Organic Blackberry2, Organic Peach2, Organic Apricot2, Organic Tomato3, Organic Pomegranate2, Organic Cacao (chocolate)2, Organic Rose Petals1, Organic Lavender Flower1 and Organic Cinnamon3, Organic Shea Butter4, Organic Rosehip Oil5, Organic Mango Butter1, Vitamin E (a-tocopherol), Vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate), May contain Mica (natural shimmery mineral)
1 certified organic by Oregon Tilth Cerfitied Organic
2 certified organic by Organic Certifiers
3 certified organic by QAI
4 certified organic by Soil Association Certification Limited
5 certified organic by Baystate Organic Certifiers
They add mica for shimmery effect,but this lipstick isn't shimmery at all.Just a'lil between glossy and watery finish.I like it!It also smells fruity and sweet.Texture is creamy,not waxy,but still not melted on Indonesia temperature which is generally warm.I like this lipstick,so I'll give this lipstick 5 points for the product.I remember soon after I wore this,and I was going to eat something I was like"Oh,I have to erase my lipstick because I don't want to swallow chemical stuffs in my lipsti...wait..this one is a blend of plants and wax!Oh,free of worries..!":D.. Ok,that's for the product.However,100%pure has a bad PR.Before purchasing this lipstick,I wrote an e-mail to ask them about the expiry date of 100%pure product.And,they never replied!Before that,I've ever sent e-mail to other companies,and they replied my e-mails.So here the product,I check for its expiry date,but by far I haven't found any.Thanks to my dear blogger friend Linusciaszek,now I know why. In US,FDA only require food products to put expiry date on it.On cosmetics,it's fully producers will.This 100%pure doesn't give it,but Badger gives it.For the bad PR and no expiry date,I'll give this product 4.5 points.So,those are my opinion about this product:).
Overall,I'm happy with the idea of fruit pigmented make up.If you ask me what I'll choose for my make up colorants,it'll be: 1st,plants. 2nd,Mineral. 3rd,Synthetic. I don't want animal as source of my make up colorants.It's just a yuck for me @_@...About the price,well..i'm in the process of converting my cosmetics into more toxic free ones.While doing it,now I see the difference.If I buy a cosmetic with plants or mineral colorants,yes the price maybe higher but it's worth what I've paid for(plants and mineral colorants are higher than synthetic ones).If I buy a cosmetic with synthetic colorants and the price is"cheap",so it's worth what I've paid for.What is bad is if I buy a cosmetic with synthetic colorants(which is less in price compared to natural ones),and cosmetic itself is priced high just because it's a high end brand so it's not worth the price that I've paid for. The worst is if I buy a cosmetic with synthetic colorants,harmfull preservatives,synthetic wax,mineral oil,and it's priced really high thanks to the high end brand,so what I get is nothing but a good packaging labelled under"high end brand". For me,what i buy should worth the money I've paid for. Cosmetic is different than fashion.For fashion,a branded bag may worth the money I spend for.But that's not what happens in cosmetic world,sometimes it goes reverse way.
Ok,That's all I can post for now.Anyway,please feel free to support any of the program below(for those who are in hunger,or animal in danger):
Thank you for reading.Have a lovely day!:)
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